Jarosław Nowak
Instruktor Polskiego Związku Alpinizmu
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Junior Camp KW Kotłownia

The German Frankenjura is almost a cult place among Polish climbers. In the area of our interest was the region stretching roughly in the triangle between the cities of Nuremberg, Bayreuth and Bamberg. But what was the call that provoked us to leave Lublin for over 1000 km? Thousands of class lines, hidden from the watchful eye, among beautiful forests, gentle hills and babbling streams? The quality of the rock? The climate of one of Europe’s historic regions? Or maybe the legend of one of the best climbers of his time – Wolfgang Gullich? The young riders of KW Kotłownia found out about it during the June sports and climbing trip to this wonderful region. They could feel this extraordinary vibe hanging in the air and accompanying us from the exit of the crowded German autobahn towards the sleepy Bavarian hills. It’s hard to describe. But the atmosphere of this place is simply extraordinary. And this rock. Limestone walls, crags and monadnocks often exceeding 40 m in height. Good friction. Lots of roads. Interesting and varied roads. Even more roads. Holes, holes, like in Swiss cheese. And there are more roads. And a lot of areas… Eh… just Frankenjura.

The goals I set for myself and the group sounded deceptively simple. Gaining maximum experience during a 10-day trip. Climbing mainly with onsight and flash styles, relatively, fast rp, calculated for a maximum of 2-3 inserts. Achieving climbing independence and confidence in one’s own abilities. Finally, instilling in young people the bug of climbing in natural rock, in the bosom of nature, and showing the beauty and diversity of this region. And all this is interspersed with polishing equipment skills, dynamic belaying when catching flights, mental preparation and climbing ethics smuggled in here and there.
The ride was to be maintained in the spirit of “team spirit”, without unnecessary internal rivalry and with the intention of working at the grassroots, so that its fruits in the form of difficult routes and climbing development could come faster. Nine daredevils took on the challenge. Natalia, Maurycy, Szymon, Irek, Hania, Mateusz, Franek, Emilia and Daria – our young players of KW Kotłownia.

Over the course of a few days of climbing, we changed places every day, so we were able to climb in areas such as; Weisenstein, Schlossbergwand, Aalkorber Wande, Leupoldsteiner Wand, Rote Wand, Altbabawand, Zehnerstein, RothelFels. Part of the group also visited a great, albeit small, area; Diebesloch.

Everyone had the opportunity to lead the way not only in their favorite formations, but was also somehow forced to work in those that were unfavorable for them, and thus to get out of their comfort zone and break the existing barriers and limitations. This task was also facilitated, in a sense, by the frugal Franconian upholstery of the roads. Going above the pins and the high first pins required mental work and resistance to the stress associated with it.

In my actions, I tried to focus on the maximum independence of my pupils. Young people learned how to use Topo, how to choose their own paths, how to solve problems safely. Training, new skills and coping with crisis situations were verified with a watchful eye, in independent actions of two-person teams. Typically technical knowledge, in relation to a normal climbing course, was compromised to the necessary minimum. I tried to adapt the knowledge I provided more to the typical sports aspirations of this group and to the prevailing age of the participants. A lot of climbing and new challenges very quickly translated into fatigue, which was also an additional challenge. Fortunately, the planned rests allowed not only to regenerate, but also to find a springboard in the form of additional sports activities and to enable mutual integration outside of climbing.

Ten days is both short and long at the same time. On the one hand, a long… Let’s remember that for a large part of this group it was a completely new experience. There were no fishing rods, you had to hang up your own machines, fight your way, tie yourself up and get your equipment back. Pay attention to your safety and the safety of your partner. Plan when to rest and when to attack the next road. Withstand the pressure of high altitude, increasing fatigue and uncertainty about what will happen in a few interceptions. Do your best even though you didn’t like the nature of the road or other factors. So, at the end of the trip, the fatigue of the material from high intensity and staying in the rocky terrain all day was noticeable. On the other hand, it was nice to observe the enthusiasm, the effects of the work and feel satisfaction seeing how the group coped with the challenges set, so, as usual in such moments, you could feel this hint of longing in your heart with a thought, so many more roads, so many things to pass on and you have to go back. What a short trip.
But I feel like we’ll be back!

At the end of this short summary of the trip, I would like to thank my quiet and humble support in the rock. Rafał and Janek, who helped me throughout the trip, taking care of safety, logistics and care, also after classes, and Magda Karaś and the other adults for co-organizing and active participation during the stay.
I would like to take this opportunity to invite all interested parties to courses, trainings, rock climbing activities and foreign training and climbing trips organized by me; “Climbing with an instructor”.

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Jarek Nowak
Jarek Nowak
https://www.kursy-wspinaczkowe.pl

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